Sake Bar Hagi

You've gotta love a sake bar that sells "chopstick helpers" and pre-bender hangover prevention supplements. I needed neither tonight, as I'm adept with chopsticks and was interested in eating instead of drinking. (Next time for sake and shochu!) But there were plenty of goodies for me to capture in my chopsticks, and non-alcoholic beverages like iced oolong tea.

I had no idea what to order. Spicy cod roe dumplings? Hokke (a Japanese fish)? Sea urchin sashimi? And those were just the specials. The main menu included lots of grilled items, appetizers and salads. First I decided on the Japanese eggplant... grilled till creamy and topped with a healthy portion of smoky shredded bonito flakes. I garnished each piece with a bit of soy sauce and minced ginger.

The special sea eel tempura came with the most addictive yuzu salt. I could eat this salt with anything, or even by itself. The citrus flavor went perfectly with the rich, lightly fried fish, of which there were a half dozen slabs.

Then... (when you can't decide, just order more!) a large pile of "mentaiko cream," or spicy cod roe spaghetti in cream sauce, arrived under a pile of shredded nori. This dish was the only one that I didn't completely adore, as there was a large amount of mayonnaise in the sauce.

Dessert was taiyaki, or a fried sweet pancake in the shape of a fish, stuffed with hot, sweet red beans ("Have you tried taiyaki?" asked the waiter, hesitantly. "Have I ever!" I replied). This version was accompanied by black sesame ice cream and whipped cream with sliced strawberries. Delicious!

I can't wait to return to Hagi.

(A tip... ever since Anthony Bourdain discovered this place, it's been mobbed almost every night. But if you come in on a Sunday, preferably before 7 p.m., you'll find ample room at the bar and several empty tables.)

Sake Bar Hagi: 152 West 49th St., (212) 764-8549.